Saturday, December 13, 2008

Hyderabad? More like...HyderabadASS

My December vacation trip around India started with me being, as my brother coined, a doofus. Misreading my train ticket (which was in English just to paint that picture for you) I arrived at the Varanasi train station not one, not two, but five hours early for my train. So after sitting in the train station for half an hour I decided to go see a movie at one of the malls that were close by. The movie, which I saw after a quick bite at McDonalds, was called "Oh, My God."

In the film, God jumps between snarkily narrating the story and snarkily showing up as various supporting roles. The story is simple. Guy comes up with a money-making scheme; guy prays to god that it will work, gets fired for handing out pamphlets about his scheme at work, guy repeatedly gets given money by God, guy goes insane lying on a pile of money in the street, God, as a mental hospital doctor, tells him he is mqking good progress and then guy ends the film by playing ball with his friend's daughter. It was all very straightforward and a real treat to watch.

After the movie I went back to the train station where I sat in the ladies waiting room for an hour until 9pm: the hour when my train was orignally supposed to arrive. To make a long and very boring five hours short for you, after three "This American Life"s and several sudokus later, the train arrived at 2am and I got on. I don't have much to say about the actual train ride except that I wasn't allowed to sit in the doorways because Indian officials love rules and I was on the train for 36 hours. Now, I'm the last person to say that train travel is boring, but 36 hours on a train is pretty substantially a) uncomfortable and b) boring. In any case, I arrived in Hyderabad 8 hours late, where I was met by the people I am staying with, a Belgian couple named Katrein and Hans. I met Katrein through Couchsurfing.com a week ago or so, and asked if it could stay with her. She said yes and I totally (I mean totally) lucked out.

First of all, I didn't have to take a rickshaw to her house, because she met me at the station with her driver, Saiid. We went back to her totally swank apartment where I was shown to my own room and bathroom. Right as I walked in I smelled something familiar, but I couldn't tell what it was. Katrein then said, "Oh, the bread must be ready, one minute," and then took out bread from her bread machine.

What? I was just in India...right? Wrong. Welcome to heaven.

So I spent some time napping and eating freshmade bread, and then Katrein, Katrein's friend's son Pinto, and I went for a walk around Lotus Lake. It's a really beautiful lake with a very nice and trash-free path around it. Afterwards we came back to the house, I learned how to say some words in Dutch (my accent is apparently very good) and waited for Hans, Katrein's boyfriend, to come home. We went upstairs to have a drink with a woman from Germany who was very nice, but was upset that she couldn't being her cat home during her vacation due to the EU's crazy animal-protection rules.

Roundabout 7 we went to the "Twin Cities Tea" which is just a bunch of ex pats (people from Western countries who leave to live in India) and NRIs (non-resident Indians). Anyway, I overheard the most American conversation ever (at least in recent memory):

Scene: two men, one very skinny, one very overweight; both have crewcuts and both are American.
A: So where are you from in the states?
B: Chicago
A: *leans back and nods while saying* Ooooohhhyeah Chicago. Whereabouts?
B: *extends his pinky from his beer and makes a circle* Belmont area you know, down the green line?
A: Yeah yeah, the green line. My sister spent some time in Chicago a few years back; college.
B: *that tongue click thing people do* Yup.
It was like every gathering I have ever been to. Ever. When I heard it I almost cried. God, I miss America.

Anyway, so after we ate some food there, we went to a club called Firefly. Before we went in Katrein said, "Now, if you're uncomfortable, tell us and we can leave. I don't know if I could handle this coming from your kind of city." I, foolishly, said, "Oh no, don't worry. I'll be fine." And thus it began.

I entered into a midnight blue, black, chrome, and glass room with music so loud the clothes that weren't right up against your body vibrated with every beat. The people all had skinny jeans, gelled hair, and black eye-liner. I saw the craziest haircuts ranging from a faux hawk to a fashion mullet. Run Lola Run was playing on four projector screens throughout the club and the bartenders were in complete silhouette, with blue neon lights pulsing on the wall behind them. Waiters in entirely black outfits with polished silk ties suggested drinks like 'cosmos,' 'mojitos,' and 'lemon twist martinis.' This place was out of this world. Or at least the hell out of India.

I spent two hours talking to various very successful couples who decided to live in Hyderabad for various reasons. Most had been brought up India, and everyone I talked to had spent at least seven years living the US. At 11:30 we got a hookah and sat in a side room that was entirely white plastic. The waiters brought us water. Then it was closing time. The club cleared out in a matter of minutes and it was 11:57. The clubs, Hans and Katrein told me, all close at midnight. So we very abruptly were ushered out into the elevator and went home to sleep.

Today Katrein and I saw Golconda fort, which was great, and then we bought tomatoes and cucumbers for a tomato, cucumber, and feta cheese salad, which was also great. The two activities were pretty on par for me. The rest of the day has been spent walking around and cooking myself dinner. Overall, a very good day.

But despite my pretty laid back day, the title of this entry remains to be my opinion of Hyderabad.

I saw a fashion mullet, people.

-allison

Friday, December 5, 2008

India's the Sparkliest Country in the World

On Wednesday at 5 pm we all got on the train and set off for Jaipur to attend Virendra-Ji's niece's wedding. Ariel, Denae, and I had berths near one another, so we all piled into a section. almost immediately, we were bombarded by Frenchmen, who were all wondering out loud who we were and where they were supposed to be. Now, it's been about 2 years since my last French class, but I did take it for 12 years, and I can still understand it when someone says, "Why are there Americans in my berth?" Don't think you fooled me, Frenchie, I see your game.

After a few hours of lounging about the train, I spent some quality time sitting in the doorway listening to TaTu with Sara, where I discovered that my dream of becoming an international pop idol may be closer than I thought. I then returned to my berth where Ariel was talking to the aforementioned Frenchies. She asked me to do my Frenchman-speaking-Hindi impression that Ed and I are now famous for, and I reluctantly obliged, clearly seeing the next step in the conversation.

Me: (Lots of embarassingly gutteral sentences in Hindi that you would only see in a really bad SNL skit)
Frenchman:

That's right. NO WORDS. Just a look dripping with, "I'm not amused." And you know what? I didn't even blame him.

After that I went to sleep, and spent the next morning once again lounging about the train, wandering to different berths my friends occupied. Then I sat in the doorway for a while. Then I wandered around more. Then Ariel bought some really disgusting candy that tasted like Cap'n Crunch. Then we found out about the attacks in Mumbai.

I don't really know how to describe the feeling we all had. All of us on the program are constantly looking up news sites and talking about current events, and for every one of us to be stuck on a train unable to find out any information, was torture. Sara's friends were saying that foreigners, specifically Americans and British people, were being targeted and shot in the street. The Taj was on fire, and the Oberoi as well. Passports were being checked, and the death toll was around 80. We thought all of those deaths were foreigners, at the time. But as the death toll climbed, we tried to buy newspapers at the train stations we stopped at. Every newspaper was in Hindi, but we were able to pick out enough information to tell us what was going on. We eventually found out that foreigners weren't being targeted, and that passports weren't, on the whole, being checked.


The whole experience felt so much like September 11th for me. I felt like I did when I was watching the second plane hit the tower, waiting for my brother to call and tell us he was okay. I felt useless and scared and yet very distant. It was a terrible thing that happened, and I'm just exceedingly happy I wasn't directly affected by it. We have a friend in Mumbai, and he was also thankfully unharmed.


After we arrived in Jaipur the mood lightened a little and Sara, Mary Beth, Denae, Maya, Ariel, and I went to our hotel. We all showered and put on clean clothes, went shopping, and then went out to dinner.


We had Thanksgiving dinner at a vastly overpriced (Four dollars for a pizza? Please.) Italian restaurant, where we were all had a fun time talking about what we bought and how overpriced everything was in Jaipur. Abbie, a girl who studied Hindi with our professor and is in her gap year, asked us to say what we were thankful for. We each said something, some of them funny, some not. I said that I was thankful that I don't have to worry about my family and friend's safety back in the States. I can, pretty consistently, count on all of them being safe. I think everyone agreed. Though it was an extremely hard day for India, it was a pretty significant Thanksgiving for me.

The actual wedding was two days after Thanksgiving, but the day before the wedding is a ceremony called the Sangeet. Traditionally, the bride's family sings and dances for the groom's family, and the groom's family waves money over their heads and puts it somewhere. I never really found out where. Either the band or the newly wedded couple gets the money. Either way, it's waved over people's heads.

We were allowed to drink actual alcohol at the Sangeet (which of course, I did not partake in) and I saw a man, one of the caterers, carrying around a pitcher and visiting various tables in the eating area. He would stand by one of the tables, chat a little to the guest and would refill people's glasses on whiskey.

That's right, a pitcher. Of whiskey. My first thought when I saw that? "Go big or go home, India. Go big or go home."

We also danced for about two hours. Oh my god. Everyone was saying that our dancing was so good, and I was so sure they were lying. But, we were into it and having fun. Here are some photos of the Sangeet.





Sara and I created a dance called "Makin Chapati." We got really into it.


Chris got way, way more into it.

So after that we went shopping more (I bought so many gifts), and we got ready for the wedding. We got to the bride's family's house an hour early so that we could all put on our sarees and jewelry, and everyone seemed ecstatic that we got so decked out. Sara had a tiika, huge nose ring, and whatever that thing is called that goes from the nose ring to your hair on, and was totally bolywood blinged out. Sadly, it was deemed too flashy (seeing as no one but the bride wears this), and Sara decided for a more low-key everyday nosering. But, don't worry. We got pictures of the whole look.


The wedding was great- it was huge and set in a massive Greek-themed courtyard. There were hot gelabies and sarees side by side with what appeared to be a plaster statue of Cesear Augustus. It was pretty awesome. The bride was wearing what must have been 30 pounds of clothing, not including her jewelry, which must have been another 10 pounds. Her Rajasthani dress was literally dripping with gems and silver, while her face and neck were guilded in gold. She looked stunning, and the wedding was absolutely magnificent.









The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful except for the fact that our hotel had the best garlic bread ever (or at least in India...yeah, you're right, definitely not ever) and I spent practically every meal there eating spinach salads, tomato soup, and garlic bread. Mary Beth bought some bleu cheese, and we put that on the spinach salad. I swear I have never been so happy to eat a leaf in my entire life. Ever. I also, miraculously, had SPANIKOPITA. It was incredible. And though in the back of my mind I knew it was the worst spanikopita I had ever had, I didn't care. I still don't.

We did see Ek Vivah...Aisa Bhi (A wedding...even like this) and Dostana (Friendship). I don't want to talk about the first one; it was pretty uneventful and not funny. Dostana, however? Oh god. It was brilliant. Here's the story line. Two guys want to rent an apartment in Miami (the Indian idea of utopia in America, by the way), but a girl lives there alone, and her Auntie only wants women to live with her. But the apartment is SO NICE that the two guys decide to pretend they're a gay couple so that they can seem non-threatening and get the really nice apartment. Anyway, the main female actress's name is Priyanka Chopra and she was Miss World. She's really godamn pretty. So anyway, the two guys predictably fall in love with her and lots of dancing ensues. It was so awesome. The gay jokes in it are HILARIOUS.

Is there a man running like he's in heels? Yeah.
Is there an exorcism with skulls to get rid of the gay? Well, yeah.
Is there a guy in a leopard print muscle tee and a dog collar? Would it be a movie about gays if the answer was no?

Oh my god it's so good. I will force all my American friends to watch it with me when I get back to the states. I will continue to be your friend on the sole condition that you love this film with me. Here's a song from the film. Oh my god it's so good.
http://in.youtube.com/watchv=8sKNKf_0Oxk&feature=related

Anyway, so we're back in Banaras and as of six hours ago I finished my last final, so I am officially on vacation. And here is my schedule for the next month.

December 6-10: Varanasi
December 11-15: Hyderabad
December 16-18: Chennai
December 18-20: OkHornPlease: Padster, Scott, and Allison road trip to Goa.
December 20-27: Goa
December 27-January 3: Probably Mumbai
January 3-April 30: Varanasi

I'll try to update on my journey, but there sadly won't be any photos for a while. I hope you all had a great Thanksgiving!

-allison